...and 30

Regardless of icy trail and cold weather I had it in my mind that I was going to make my last trip of the year up Alum Cave a quick one. Within 50yds from the trailhead though I ran into a string of about 30 hikers making their way up the trail. Early on a December Monday morning you don't expect to see a group this size, so I asked the folks pulling up the rear if someone messed up and left the gate open. After chatting a minute I realized I'd met most of them before on past trips up and down LeConte. My initial disappointment at not being able to run the "easy" section of the trail was more than made up for with getting to cross paths with a bunch of local folks out enjoying the park.

View of Cliff Top from The Pulpit

The rest of the ascent was near perfect, with enough ice to make the upper sections extra challenging and some of the best visibility I've seen up top in quite some time.  I had arrived at the trailhead with thoughts about how fast I could hit the Lodge, but by the time I got there I didn't even bother to check my watch. There were numerous windless, sunny spots that I had to linger in first.

This run made thirty trips up the mountain in 2011. A few folks have asked me why 30. No, its not a record for ascents in a year, not even close. 30 trips up the mountain isn't even a big hiking month for someone like Ed Wright. And yeah, there are hundreds of other miles of trails and peaks. Many of which I've yet to do. 

When I decided to hit the summit of LeConte thirty times this year the number seemed to be the right balance between over-saturation and under-appreciation of the mountain. Making 30 my goal number has certainly caused me to see more of my favorite place in the Smokies, but it's never felt like a burden. Throughout the course of the year I've had ample time to explore other sections of the park, various races, and other locales. The trips have varied from hikes with first-timers, friends and family, park visitors from across the country, and solo runs just to see how fast I could go. The trails leading up the mountain have been a source of both pride and humility, always managing to leave me closer to the center than when I began a particular day on the trail. My true goal for chasing 30 summits of LeConte this year was not to thump my chest and prove how many times I could run or hike the mountain, but to provide a focal point for my experiences in the park. 

Race Report: Lookout Mountain 50 Miler

Standing in line for the porta-potties I was riddled with anxiety. I felt like we arrived at the race start with ample time to don race numbers, make necessary clothing changes, etc. The countdown clock at the race start told a different story 25min... 20min... still in line. With race participation double from the year before, this hold-up was not an issue I remembered from last year. I finally make my way to the front of the line with much relief. My relief was only short lived though as I soon watched my borrowed MP3 player (sorry dad) begin to tumble into the blue pool of death that sat below me. In what I thought was an amazing display of coordination I grabbed the headphone cord just before the whole works disappeared, but the player then separated from the headphones and continued its spiral into the abyss. Well... at least I saved the headphones.

From Left to Right: "Flyin" Brian Williams, Brian Pickett(in Grey T-Shirt),
Troy Shellhamer (Green), Nick Lewis (red), Far right-eventual winner Johnny Clemmons

After a fair amount of last minute hustling I made it to the starting line with about a minute to spare. The four on the right in the above picture formed the lead pack, moving out of sight within the first five minutes. Mr. Brian Williams and I along with a few others formed a chase pack, settling into a pace that resembled something manageable for a 50 mile race.

As we ran along I relayed my story of the MP3 players demise to Brian. His response, "That's kind of fitting because there's nothing but crap on there anyway." ...Thanks Dude.

After about 45 minutes I decided to lay down a slightly faster pace to see if I could at least keep the gap between myself and the front runners to a minimum. I hoped a few others would tuck in behind me, but after about 10 minutes there was no one in sight ahead or behind. Running solo between the front runners and the chase pack is pretty much where I stayed the rest of the day.

My plan was to run a reasonable pace until around mile 35 or so, and then see if I could pick it up a bit and hope one of the front-runners blows up. A few times I had delusions of running down the lead runners, but two months of nagging injuries and 20-30 mile training weeks wouldn't allow it. A wealth of desire and effort simply can't overcome a lack of training.

Chugging Along at Mile 38

At mile 38 I met Caitlin and Dad one last time and was very quickly sent on my way with a full race pack and news that there was a guy a few minutes ahead of me who wasn't looking so awesome. A few minutes doesn't sound like much, but after 6hrs of running "a few minutes" is a hard gap to close. For what seemed like an eternity, I met runners from the mid-pack who kept saying the 4th place guy is "right up there" or "seconds ahead of you." Nearly an hour after Caitlin told me I was closing on 4th, I finally saw a grey shirted dude bobbing down the trail in front of me.

I ran about 100yds behind Brian Pickett for maybe a half mile. I wanted to get my head right before making the pass, hoping to feign the appearance of fresh legs and lots of energy. We actually ended up running through the final aid station side by side, splitting time between encouraging one another and discussing who feels more like death. I was tempted to stick with the guy as we were essentially running the same pace, but I decided this was a dangerous idea and tried to create some space. No luck, Mr. Pickett was in obvious pain, but stayed within sight until within minutes of the finish. I think I might have a crick in my neck from looking over my shoulder.

Trying to not look miserable

So this year I got booted off the podium, but that's OK. Although about 7 minutes off last years race time, I feel like I ran a much smarter race and had many more obstacles this year  in 1) lack of training 2) absolutely HEINOUS creek crossings. To tell the truth, I really exceeded my own expectations for how I'd fare and don't feel I could have run much better, if at all, on this particular day. My running by volume was about a third to half of where it was last year and almost all on roads, I kind of feel like I ran this one "off the couch." One huge bonus for this go around of Lookout was Caitlins expert crewing skills, we probably managed to shave 5-10 minutes just by getting through the aid stations faster. There were a few aid stations were I never even had to break stride. A huge thanks to her and dad for a day full of hurry up and wait while I ran around in the woods.

For anybody considering this race I'd definitely recommend it. The course is really about as good as you'll find and you'll get enough race goodies to break even on your entry fee.What else could you ask for? 

The days winners

Fallout from 7hrs of wet feet, 6,500ft of elevation gain, and 50miles of technical trail:

the largest blood-blister I've ever received

A destroyed birthday present

Finally, congratulations to all the Knoxvillians who went out and made their way through one tough day on the trails. I wish you all a speedy recovery and hope the holidays treat you well.

Cheers!

Farewell Franklin, Hello Lookout Mountain

In just a couple more days I'll be bouncing out of Franklin and heading back to Gatlinburg, where I can once again get back to hitting the smokies trails on a more routine basis. Not that this area doesn't have its highlights, but the smokies it ain't. I did manage to have a little fun while I was here, below are a few photos from day hikes and long runs that I've taken while out and about in the Franklin area.

Whitewater Falls

Rufus Morgan Falls

Wasilik Poplar

Big Laurel Falls

Bridal Veil Falls

Dry Falls

View from Wayah Bald

Lately my time and energy have been focused on doing what I need to do get the heck out of here.Which essentially entails an endless stream of exams, practicals, etc. My time for running has all but evaporated. While normally I'd just say "whatever, I've got my whole life to run," the problem right now is that I have a 50 mile trail RACE (Lookout Mountain 50) in two weeks. This will be the second time I've run this race and only the second "official" ultra I've ever run.

I've tried to remedy the lack of training a few ways. When I do run, make it count, no fluff miles. And lots of cross training. Often I've found time in-between classes, lunch breaks, etc to squeeze in some core work or some leg work in the weight-room when the time demands of changing, running, and showering isn't feasible. I hope this will at least reduce my race day suffering to some degree.

Lack of preparation aside, I'm very excited about the race. The course, aid stations, and schwag are top notch. I'm interested to see how a little more experience will change the race for me as well. Last year I was dangerously close to a DNF during the middle part of the race, due to a lack of knowledge about hydration and electrolytes (i.e. cramps from toes to butt). While I was pretty green as to how to run an ultra last year, I did know how to train and I that I did in abundance. So I'm really hitting the starting line from a whole new angle this year, more experience, but minimal training. Regardless, a full day running trails sounds really good right now.

Lookout 2010, All smiles after 50miles

There will be a 10k trail race going on as well  for those not with sense enough to not run fifty miles. My Dad and Caitlin will be taking part in the 10k, if for no other reason than to give them something to do while I run around all day. Also, Good luck to all the local running people that will be toeing the line as well at Lookout.

"If its the Beaches..."

I was a really lucky kid. For all of our readers that know my parents, I think you would agree. They rock!!! And not only because they are supportive, fun and have a great collection of vinyl.

My folks have always been the type to love adventure...and I am thankful every day that they didn't stop exploring new places even after I was born.

Park Housing at Gulf Islands National Seashore

Every year of my youth we went on 2 summer vacations. One at our families lake property in Northern Wisconsin and one at Gulf Islands National Seashore on the FL panhandle.

Now, I didn't get to be much of a runner until I was an adult...and as per usual...family vacations seemed to end sometime early on in college....which has left me to dream profusely (on certain types of summer days) about traipsing around my old summer haunts.

I still daydream all too often of running down my favorite stretch of beach or down an old dirt road next to Little Star Lake in the Wisconsin Northwoods. So, when my supervisor told me that I would be attending a training at Gulf Islands, I thought I would fall off my chair.

The beach makes me Happy!!!

I began planning runs that I would do if I had the chance within our very busy training schedule...and looked forward to it for nearly a month. To make it short and sweet, it was awesome!

Gulf Islands and the area around Pensacola Beach are awesome. The sand is white and beautiful...in park the beaches are pristine and the maritime forest is amazing. Running on the beach is flat...albeit windy and a real calf workout...I also love it because it is a constant treasure hunt for the next cool bird/shell/dolphins, etc.

Da' Bomb Jelly on the beach

And the sunset...

... still takes my breath away.

~~~ Caitlin~~~

The Old Settlers Trail Traverse

There's something really inviting about the Old Settlers Trail when you look at the map of the Smokies. The trail is all relatively low elevation and doesn't cross any major mountains, leading you to believe that the trail will be smooth singletrack with minimal elevation gain. The OST traverse is also about 16 miles, a good distance for a long trail run or ambitious day hike.

The OST is no place to get lulled into complacency though, it'll lay the smack down whenever it gets a chance. This past weekend I managed to complete the traverse relatively unscathed, but in the past I've had my share of bee stings, false summits, and have seen friends get some pretty severe exhaustion and hypothermia while attempting to complete the traverse.

Bee Sting to the eyelid---- OST, September 2008

Most often I've done this traverse alone, as finding other folks who run for hours for fun is kind of difficult, but for this go around I had some good company in four other local runners who also happen to be training for the Lookout Mountain 50 Miler.

In this Photo:
Brian Williams, William Brown, Derrick Bowerman, and Paul Gossett

Going point to point on the Old Settlers Trail took us almost to the minute my forecast-ed "about three hours." If you were quick, fast, and in a hurry you could probably lop a fair amount of time from that, but there is a lot to see on this trail that you might miss otherwise. Its best to take the time to stop and look around.

Further Down the Trail

"I felt like lying down by the side of the trail and remembering it all."

Nantahala National Forest

Nantahala National Forest

"The woods do that to you, they always seem familiar, like the face of a long dead relative, like an old dream, like a piece of forgotten song drifting across the water..."

Porters Flat-GSMNP

Porters Flat-GSMNP

" ...I saw that my life was a vast glowing empty page and I could do whatever I wanted."

Jack Kerouac-The Dharma Bums

LeConte Summit #25 for 2011

 

A Man to Run the River With

Rarely is it that I get to run races. My chosen career path is a great one, but unfortunately does not allow for many free weekends. It's even rarer that I get to run a race with my Dad and Caitlin. But in a stroke of luck this past weekend everything just fell into place and we converged on Waynesville, NC for the Bethel Half-Marathon.

A Quick Pre-Race Photo

To tell you the truth, I didn't have a lot of stake invested in this race and maybe even still had a sour taste in my mouth from the last half that I ran back in February. The big excitement of this weekend for me was that 1.) It was my dad's birthday 2.) To celebrate, he decided to run his first half-marathon. How cool is that!?!  3.) Caitlin was going to make her second attempt at the distance ( I think she has a 50k attempt in her somewhere, maybe one day I'll convince her to run an ultra). So, representing the running Worth gang at Bethel we had a 13.1mile newbie, a second attempt, and a guy that mostly just runs around in the woods.

When the gun sounded to start the race temperatures were hovering around 40F and full sun. Too cold to enjoy standing around, but great running weather. The course had a few hills, namely mile 3, which was all up hill. Other than that it was a really fun, modified figure eight course. At the end of the race I found myself in 3rd overall with a new personal record for the distance of 1hr20min36sec.

The highlight of the day for me though was getting to watch Dad and Caitlin finish their races. A decade or so ago my dad could barely run a mile, much less a half-marathon.  I'm always proud of my Dad, but today even more so. As a runner, I recognize the challenge of becoming fit enough to simply START a half-marathon, much less run one as well as he did. Over the years Dad has overcome some huge obstacles and turned himself into a strong hiker, runner and cyclist. There are a lot of ways in which I could be more like the guy, but more than anything I hope to someday manage to be the Father he's been for me.

2hrs10min, Happy Birthday Dad!

A few moments after Dad crossed the line, Caitlin came in looking strong. This was her second attempt at a half-marathon and set a new best by over three minutes, even though the course was much tougher than her last race. Nothing makes running more fun than having crazies with you that like to run too!

Good times guys!

Standing Indian Loop

Kimsey Creek and Appalachian Trails
Nantahala National Forest
26-ish Miles 5hr24min

If I did anymore road and greenway running I was bound to have an identity crisis and start thinking I was a fast road runner. So to clear up any confusion I headed up the nearest mountain and received a solid beat down via the best all-day loop I could come up with. And apparently I'm not the only one who has thought this route looked like a good idea.

This was actually what I used to navigate my run... kind of scary

Beginning/End Point-  Near Standing Indian Campground

I had every intention of sleeping late and trying to run during the warmer part of the day, but found myself on trail just before sunrise. Certainly worth it, numb hands and all. The first five miles or so were all up-hill belligerence until reaching the summit of Standing Indian; a mountain that carries the distinction of being the highest point on the AT south of the Smokies and is a popular backpacking destination. I can testify to this because of the number of backpackers who were woken up by their dogs barking at some guy (me) running around in tights early in the morning.

Summit View from Standing Indian Mountain

Leaving Standing Indian I finally got to run most of the time thanks to a little gravity assistance. Unfortunately most of the really technical stuff wasn't as much fun as usual due to some dumbness known as Tabata circuits, a really terrible type of work-out that I did for the first time on Thursday (this day was Sunday.) 

Even though my legs didn't feel top notch, my trail snacks were a vast improvement over what I normally carry. Lately I've been getting away from gels and powders and trying to eat more food like substances on the run. The two things that I've had success with are applesauce mixed with lime and honey (carried in a gel flask) and some sort of bangin' energy bar that Caitlin makes out of PB, Raisins and Oats. I have absolutely no idea how to make them or why they taste so good, but they are the bomb.

View from Albert Mountain

Singletrack Leaving Albert

A fun part of today was taking a trip down memory lane. The last time I saw this section of trail was during my 08 thru-hike, right in the middle of one of the most intense storms I had ever seen. And I mean right in the middle, the pucker factor was extremely high. For about half an hour the sky was nothing but gray/black, with several patches of bright pink when the lightning would strike around us.

Today was not that day though, and Albert Mountain let me ease on by without complaint. The last 7 miles of the day were probably the most runnable, an almost perfect section of single-track with just a little downhill pitch to it. This gift allowed me to finish the run in relative comfort and not be completely begging for mercy as I suspected I would be when making it back to the campground. 

This route is definitely a keeper, and with picture perfect fall days like these one that would also make a pretty sweet three day backpacking trip.