Sunday, February 27, 2011

The Face of Defeat

If you're a runner or hiker, at some point you've undoubtedly had that moment where you question your sanity and judgement. You may rethink your choice of hobbies, your friends, and be willing to make unmentionable compromises. You swear to find hobbies that take place indoors and preferably occur in a seated position. This post is dedicated to those moments, and the face we all make. The face of defeat.



Brent Worth, considering the expense of being helicoptered off LeConte


BW after four miles of continuous uphill grade



Finishing my first marathon



Hoy after "interval" training


Utterly defeated after four days in the woods

It happens to the best of us. Even the pros...

Andrew Skurka, professional backpacker

While completing his latest journey, a 4,679 mile circuit of Alaska, Mr. Skurka certainly hit a few valleys of his own. You can read about his trip here.


If anyone has a picture they'd like to see added to the post, just send 'em my way and I'll make it happen.

Additional Submissions from Matthew Birdsell:

Mr. Birdsell Finishing the Nashville Marathon

After four days in the backcountry of Yellowstone

Thursday, February 24, 2011

A Day in the High Country

Mt. LeConte-GSMNP
Appalachian Trail/Boulevard/Alum Cave Tr.
~14mi

Not being one to let a nice day slip by, I followed up Tuesday's long run with a trip up LeConte. This time of year, LeConte is still fairly well covered in ice or hard packed snow. How to deal with this has been plaguing me most of the winter season. Crampons are frustrating when the trail repeatedly goes from ice to dirt, also, I am stingy to the umpteenth degree and don't want to spend money on something I'll most likely use less than 10 times per year.

So I did a little online research, and here's what I came up with...

Screwed Shoes

An explanation: 
Well, what you see is what you get. In each shoe you've got about ten 1/4inch hex head screws. These are screwed in from the bottom of the shoe inward, not from the inside out. The screws cost about fifteen cents per piece, and all you really need is a screwdriver (or drill to expedite the process). You can find much more detailed instructions at various websites, like here.

Wednesday's trail conditions provided the perfect opportunity to test out the modifications to my trusty hiking shoes. 

Nothing but ice and snow on the AT

In comparing the screwed shoes to Dad's in-step crampons, my guess is that the traction was equal on all but the hardest of ice. In those conditions, crampons provided slightly more confident footing.

Where the screws prove most useful are the situations where you get 100yds of ice followed by 100yds of exposed rock, etc. When walking on rock (or even pavement) the screws are barely noticeable.

View from the landslide below Myrtle Point

If you find yourself hiking the Boulevard trail in the next week or so, you'll probably have icy conditions on the last (and hardest) mile before you reach the summit.

Myrtle Point

Cliff Top

Generally, it was warm and sunny on the summit with barely any wind. By the time we left, clouds moved in a a few itinerant snow flakes drifted past.

The footing on Alum Cave trail was actually in great shape Wednesday. Except for the last mile before the summit, everything was in good shape.

Above the Switchback Stairs

My suspicion was that after miles of rock and dirt the screws would become cumbersome or at best mildly annoying. They were excellent all day though, unnoticeable all but a small percentage of the time. If your looking for a cheap solution to deal with winter time trail conditions, I recommend screwing up an old pair of hiking shoes and trying it out.



Tuesday, February 22, 2011

Today's Run: Parson Branch Road

Parson Branch Road
Cades Cove, GSMNP
20mi  3,400ft elevation gain- 3hr4min


This run has been on my list for a very long time, but always gets put on the back-burner somehow. The road is due to open to vehicle traffic March 11th, so I figured I better get on it unless I wanted to share.

Parson Branch Road: Connecting Cades Cove and Hwy 129


The elevation profile... or a Rorschach test


Parson Branch Road was first built in 1830  as a turnpike to connect area residents with North Carolina markets. Now the road is a place for fools like me to run (or drive,hike, or bike) on. You can still see reminders of past residents along the route.

Nobody home at the Henry Whitehead place

As roads go in the smokies, Parsons is about as far out there as you can get. And the park isn't afraid to tell you so.

Sounds good at first

From a runner's perspective, Parsons has some great things (scenery, good footing), but also some not great things depending on who you are (1,700ft of elevation gain each way, ~15 creek crossings). The creek crossings are probably a non-issue in drier weather, but today there were a couple foot soakers. Maybe if you are more nimble and patient than me you can find a good place to cross.

    One of Many...

As an out and back, the real trouble is when you have the creek crossings and unrelenting hills at the same time.

Seemingly endless hills...

After hitting highway 129 in a little under an hour and a half, I began the return trip without much encouragement from the road signage.


They really, really, really, don't want ya going the wrong way

Outside of the hills and creek crossings, the return trip was pleasantly uneventful. Other than some turkeys, squirrels, and crows I had the place all to myself.


The home stretch

I'm happy to have finally knocked this piece of road off my list. Today also gave me the opportunity to do a little recon for future trips...



Sunday, February 20, 2011

A man can dream

Here's an interesting story about Andrew Thompson, the man who owns the record for fastest Appalachian Trail thru-hike. 2,174 miles in 47 days. Not too shabby.

Friday, February 18, 2011

Adventures in Locations Beyond: Grand Canyon



I cannot get over how lucky I am. I just returned home from an amazing 2 week trip to the Grand Canyon. I went to "The Big Ditch" to attend National Park Service Fundamentals II, which is probably one of the coolest “corporate” training programs in the entire world. Not only is it staged at the Grand Canyon, but it is lead by amazing park staff and gives you the opportunity to meet 50 some-odd park service employees from all over the country, thereby opening up available couch space in all of the nooks and crannies of America.


Our Group Heading Down South Kaibab Trail

Enough about that...one of the coolest things about this trip was the weekend off between training days. There are a stupid amount of choices for things to do (of course), so it is difficult to pick just a couple things. That being said, I planned my run before I got to the canyon with the hopes that I was doing the right thing... and I will tell you right now, I was. I didn't expect to have any partners on this expedition, but that was a surprise that made this experience one to really cherish.


Myself, April and Elizabeth (L to R) at Mather Point

Many people are familiar with the traditional trails that leave from the Rim and travel into the canyon(that adventure was for another day), we chose to run on the Rim Trail, East towards the fairer side of our great country. It was amazing!!! What an awesome treat to have running buddies, and see more of the canyon simultaneously. We did a 5 mile out and back from Grand Canyon Village to Mather Point and the Grand Canyon Visitor Center. Of course being the self appointed geeks that we are, we stopped for our breathers in the visitor centers along the way. Running at and above 7,000 ft the entire way lead to a difficulty that was not anticipated. The good thing is, there were more than enough excuses to stop and catch your breath.

Sunset on the Canyon

Tuesday, February 15, 2011

Walkabout

Rainbow Falls-Bullhead Trail Loop ~14mi
Mt. LeConte-Great Smoky Mountains National Park

After Saturday's race, I woke up Sunday morning with great temptation to just take it easy. But it was warm, the sun was out, and sometimes I just can't help myself. Instead of rest and recovery, I decided to make a trip up Mt. LeConte.
For this journey, I was flying solo. Caitlin is at the Grand Canyon, Cody was wisely resting (as I probably should have been), and Dad had to work. No problem, a day on the trail by yourself is a fine thing.


"Wildlife" near the start of Rainbow Falls Trail

Generally, I avoid Rainbow Falls Trail due to being choked with people much of the year. Today wasn't bad, saw two folks between the parking lot and the falls. Saw no one except a grizzled mountain man (LeConte caretaker) above the falls until I reached the summit.

Trail above the falls

Trail Conditions:
Pretty good really. As you can see there is still plenty of snow, but the ice is minimal. Made it up and down the mountain without the use of crampons, icespikes, etc. There are opportunities to post-hole on the upper parts of Bullhead if you're not careful. No exceptionally gnarly blowdowns on the entire loop.

View of Mt. LeConte from Rocky Spur


The summit was fantastic, warm enough to be comfortable in a heavy sweater or light down jacket. Minimal crowds. 

Here's some eye candy:

Near the Summit

Looking towards Clingman's Dome


"There are lies, damn lies, and statistics"   Mark Twain.

Trip up 2hr 44 min
Trip down 2hr 20min
2.75mile per hour average

Solo hiking is an opportunity to think about so much and so little at the same time. It was truly a sublime day.

Sunday, February 13, 2011

Race report from the Strawberry Plains Half Marathon

 The half is really a nice distance, long enough to garner a sense of accomplishment, but not so long that you have to walk down the stairs backwards all week afterwards. (But who really wants to say they ran a half anything?)
 Anyway, this was my first road race in almost a year. A chance to see if I had any foot speed left after generally running long slow miles on trail for most of 2010. 
To make a long story short, it was terrible. I took off at a ridiculous pace, and then just tried not to blow up the rest of the race.

Fiddlers of Men: pre-race preparations


Mr. Zurhellen looking pensive before the gun


Despite a mentally and physically exhausting first ten miles ( EX. going out too hard, mistakenly turning at the 10k half-way point, and dropping my GU packet in the dirt), The last three were great. No one was threatening to pass me and I wasn't going to set a personal record, so I just changed settings to cruise control. 


A distracted finish at best

Maybe the race didn't go exactly as I'd hoped, but it was still an excellent day. I spent the last few miles of the race being mindful of how lucky I am to have my health and so many good people in my life (as well as day dreaming about post-race beverages).

Cody would go on to finish the half in 1hr45min,
a solid race as he works up to the Knoxville Marathon

Yesterday's race was an interesting challenge, but it very well may be another year before I decide to run a road race again.



Numbers are Fun:

Mile 1 ----5:34  (Effectively ensuring myself a miserable race)

Mile 3-----17:52   5:57 Pace

Mile 6-----37:03   

Mile 10---1:02:30  6:15 Pace

Finish-----1:24:30     6:28 cumulative race pace   (7:05 pace for the last 3.1mi)

Placement: 10th overall (out of 300), 1st in Age Group (25-29)

Wednesday, February 9, 2011

Wintertime Delusions

Delusion: a fixed false belief that is resistant to reason or confrontation with actual fact... 


Well, I'd say that sounds about right.


Around this time of year, the novelty of running and hiking in the snow has started to fade and my sunshine deprived brain starts to plan summer trips. This is a dangerous thing.
 In my deranged state, I typically plan multi-day outings on trails or rivers I've never seen and I'm so convinced that it will be a wonderful time that I actually manage to convince my friends to tag along as well. Sometimes the trips are wonderful, sometimes they're terrible. The most likely scenario is that there will be good and bad times in abundance.

For an example, lets take a look at last years spring float trip.

                            Initial Plan: Paddle From Asheville,NC to Douglas Lake, TN.
                            A distance of about 80 miles via the French Broad River

Being that we only had about 4 days to complete our journey, the trip plan was shortened and Marshall, NC was to be the new put-in point. This meant that we had 4 days to cover 54 miles, and I started selling the trip as a laid back float and fish type of journey. My estimates for the number of Smallmouth Bass caught on this expedition would be somewhere near one hundred per person.


 In two days, the pictured canoe would be folded around a rock in a very un-canoe like U  shape.
In this photo: From L to R (Brent Worth, Dave Worth, Jon Schwenk, Ben Schwenk, Cody Zurhellen)

Typically, the logistics on these trips is a supreme undertaking in and of itself. For this trip, we had the transport to and from our take-out points covered thanks to a wonderful wife and mother-in-law. We made it to Marshall, NC with no problems on a sunny and promising day. As we began our float, the idea of nothing to do but paddle and fish for four days had us all feeling like this trip would be legendary.

It's important to note that among the five of us, only two had kayaking or canoeing experience. Only one of us had whitewater experience. This didn't seem to matter though as the initial miles were incredibly mellow. But as the day progressed the air became cooler, the surrounding mountains steeper, and the water swifter. As the water became more challenging, many of us started spending more time in the water instead of on it. Day 1 culminated with Dad taking about a quarter mile whitewater swim and then becoming severely hypothermic.

                                 After Dad had some hot coffee, maniacal laughter ensued

Luckily, we found a decent place to camp a short distance up river.

                                          Breaking Camp, Morning of Day 2

Tensions were high on the second day. My promises of a laid back journey were, uh... brought to my attention. Nothing about this day was easy, or even remotely pleasant for that matter. This was the single most exhausting day of my life. By and large, the folks in kayaks could manage the rapids. Unfortunately, the guys in the canoe were having to walk their boat through every stretch of whitewater, which seemed to be placed in exact quarter mile intervals. If you've never experienced the difficulty of walking a canoe and 50lbs of gear down a rapid, lucky you.

                               Fun game... see if you can find Cody swimming yet another rapid
                               Hard game... see if you can spot his kayak

But if anyone could master such a task, it would be the Schwenk brothers. We sure know they we're getting plenty of practice. A very intricate system of walking behind the canoe and guiding/dislodging it with a rope had been devised. Usually, it worked very well. This was no usual trip though.

We were within eye-shot of Hot Springs, NC, which at this point had become our goal to the point of obsession. I had eagerly paddled ahead, waiting for the crew to navigate the days final rapid. Something was taking an unusually long time though. As I made my way back up river, I could see Cody, Ben, and Jon, but just one kayak. This is not a good thing. What I found upon arrival was some strange deformed piece of red polyethylene, ohhhh.... the canoe. As I looked around, I could see the bulk of our gear floating in various eddys and cruising down stream.

                                      Sitting in the smelly kayaker section of Iron Horse Station

Through some stroke of masterful luck, we finally made it to Hot Springs, NC. On this day, 10 miles of river took us over 10 hours to cover. If you ever find yourself with a canoe that has become concave instead of convex, my advice to you would be kick it and yell your choice of profanities until it returns to its proper shape. It worked for us, the canoe performed beautifully on the final 34 miles of river.


My assumption was that after so much suffering, the trip was to end at Hot Springs. But much to my surprise, there was no mention whatsoever of calling it quits. We simply rested, re-supplied, and began day number 3 of this most interesting journey.

By this point, the river began to resemble something of what I had originally envisioned. Scenic and easy.

                               Livin' the High Life

At the close of the 3rd day, we conveniently found ourselves at the Bobarosa Saloon, a restaurant and bar located in Del Rio, TN. If you've never heard of Del Rio, you should do a little research, they're famous for all sorts of things.

                                       An interesting evening was had

By day 4, the crew had forgiven me for nearly sending them to their grave. Putting such a heinous stretch of river behind us was now a point of pride among us.

This final day also made good on my promises of Smallmouth Bass.

                            Redemption: Ben showing off the fish of the trip

We eventually paddled our way to the beginnings of Douglas Lake. Sunburned, dehydrated, and in dire need of a shower; we loaded the boats and gear and made the trip home. Never did I think that I would ever have any desire to even risk replicating such a journey. As the winter progresses though, I occasionally find myself following blue lines on a map through places I've never been. Maybe I'll even be lucky enough to find a few guys who are foolish enough to come with me.

Sunday, February 6, 2011

Catching Up

This week got off to a strange start. Monday's run ended with what felt like a recurring injury in my left leg trying to rear it's ugly head. No worries though. I significantly cut back on the running miles and did quite a bit of hiking and riding the bike trainer instead.

Took advantage of the sun Thursday and made a great hike from Schoolhouse Gap to the Townsend Wye. This was my first time making the side trip to White Oak Sink.

                                                  White Oak Sink-GSMNP

Today is when the catching up happened. My bud Cody was in town and needed to get his long run in for the week. He's currently training for the Knoxville Marathon, which puts his long runs around 18 miles right now. Well, for better or worse I jumped on the opportunity to accompany Cody on such a long jaunt.

For our run we headed over to the Greenbrier section of the park, one of my favorite places for getting a long run in. The course for today was a simple out and back with the Emert's Cove/ Hwy 416 interstection forming one turnaround, and the Grapeyard Ridge Trail as the other. Two out and backs makes for 18 miles, exactly what we needed.

                                 Cody Zurhellen- Runner, AT thru-hiker, and beard enthusiast

For me, this was  my longest run of the year so far. For Cody, this was the longest run of his life. Gotta say the guy did real well. 18 miles in 2hr45min, makes for about a 9min/mile pace.

Greenbrier Road-GSMNP

Not only was today my longest run in a while, it was also one of the most enjoyable. There are few things that I find as therapeutic as a long run with a good friend. Plenty of time for quality conversation (as long as you're not running uphill).

Can't Even Wrap My Head Around This One

KarlMeltzer.com

These are unofficial results for the Rocky Raccoon 100, a one hundred mile race in Texas. The winning pace for 100 miles... 7min 40sec per mile.

Wednesday, February 2, 2011

Panorama-rama: A quick trip report from Mt. LeConte

Well, there are two reasons for the post title. One reason is the outrageous amount of views we received on today's hike, the other reason is that I just recently discovered the panoramic function on my camera. I apologize in advance for the gratuitous use of this feature.

                               Myrtle Point

                              Just Past the Trail Shelter



Trail Conditions for Alum Cave Trail:

This morning you could have ice skated to somewhere near Arch Rock. From there, the trail was relatively passable until The Pulpit (approximately half-way to the summit). If you were selective with your foot placement, crampons or micro-spikes were not necessary, but you would probably rather have them than not. Especially on the descent. 
As for blowdowns there were several before Arch Rock, but nothing of consequence after that.


I didn't use the panoramic function EVERY time.

                                         Cliff Tops

                                      Grassy Patch


Today's Hike By the Numbers:

Trailhead- 9:15 AM
Alum Cave Bluff -10:23 AM
The Lodge- High Noon (2:45 total climb time)
Lunch and milling around until about 1:30 PM
From the Lodge back to Trailhead 3:45PM (2hr 15min descent)
Net time- Approximately six and a half hours

Total number of falls-countless

Both the parking lot and trail were relatively vacant today. Other than my Dad, I saw only two other folks on the trail. Hard to believe on such a banner hiking day.


OK, one more panoramic photo... vertical panorama. Flippin' Sweet.