The Smokies Traverse

Great Smoky Mountains National Park
Fontana Dam to Davenport Gap
72 miles- 14hr50min22sec


For years I've contemplated the possibility of running the AT through the smokies in a single attempt. I'd hate to know the amount of time spent gazing at the Smokies map, wondering if it is even possible, much less a good idea. For quite a long time now its been just that; a day-dream... a notion... something I'll do "someday" when the time is right.

The route: Fontana Dam to Davenport Gap

These things are somewhat like having kids or buying a house I suppose, if you wait until you absolutely know you're ready you'll probably never do it. With this fact in mind, I finally convinced myself to attempt this absurd journey. And no, the timing wasn't right and I didn't feel ready either. Or so I thought.

For weeks my friend Brian had tossed out several possible attempt dates. I would agree to a date, flake off, and then try to re-schedule sometime later. He wouldn't have any of it, finally I gave up and gave in, settling on May 19th. My physical preparations weren't perfect either. For the week prior my roommate from college had been in town. Meaning my life had consisted of pizza, pretzels, and other more dubious forms of carbs. Top all of this off with a strange pain in my left foot that began three days prior to the run and you can see where I may not have began this attempt with great confidence.

Well, here's how events transpired:

An absurd journey begins at an absurd hour. We woke at 1AM and left the house about fifteen til' 2. We reached Fontana Dam a little later than planned, but still managed a respectable start time of 4:15AM.

No Donny, these men are nihilists

And away we go...

Running from the morning dark to dawn was one of the most enjoyable parts of the journey. I spent most of the dawn bird chorus doing a little birding on the fly, naming off species and natural history as we went. While the bird action was exciting to me, all my talk about birds eventually led Brian to jokingly (I think) ask if I planned on maybe listening to the i-pod I brought. In short, shut up about the birds Dave.

Near Russell Field shelter, Brian had to hang back due to some gastrointestinal problems. The rest of the day I would run alone, but morning views from places like Rocky Top, Thunderhead and Silers Bald made for good company. The first leg of the journey to Clingmans Dome was mostly smooth (except for dropping my headlamp down an embankment when trying to put away my gloves), with my water and food supply running out only about two miles before the aid station (my Dad) at the Dome.

I knew quick exchanges at the aid stations would be critical for a fast traverse time. In reading others reports, it seems this is where the most time is lost. At Clingmans Dome I gladly traded Dad my 100oz camelbak for two bottles of gatorade, an odwallla bar, and an ibuprofen. Within three minutes I was on my to Newfound Gap, with my time for the journey so far totaling 7hr2min52sec.

The downhill section to Newfound was a welcome change from the mostly uphill running that had occurred so far. Nearing Newfound Gap I passed former Smokies Traverse record holder Will Harlan heading the other direction. Upon realizing who he was I blurted out something like "Are you Will Harlan! Oh cool. I'm going to break the record today!" Tact and modesty are obviously my strong suits.

Reaching my second aid station at Newfound Gap was awesome. Dad already had the rear hatch of the Jeep open in a spot right next to the trail head. I stuffed my face with potatoes and mountain dew, then reclaimed my camelbak and began walking towards Davenport Gap. Thanks to Dads willingness to refill my nasty running pack with food and water while I ran from the Dome, I only had to halt my forward progress for about seven minutes at Newfound Gap. For the first 40miles I was sitting on a total time of 8hr40min.

Mmmm... mountain dew and boiled potatoes

All smiles for Mr. Williams

Leaving Newfound Gap, I knew I had a little over seven hours left to lower the previous record of 15hr57min. About a month ago, Brian and I had ran this same section in a little under six hours, if my legs would hold up I knew it was possible. As I left Newfound Gap though, my competitive side got the best of me. I decided that I not only wanted the record, but I wanted the next record setter to have to work for it. My goal became to go sub six hours for the final 30miles.

The running was a little awkward until I passed Charlie's Bunion. Reason number one being that I had only seen a dozen people all day and was now passing what seemed like hundreds, receiving many confused glances along the way. Reason two had to do with chugging a mountain dew and eating three potatoes, to say I had the bubble guts would be an understatement. Finally I again settled back into a smooth run/walk routine and resumed methodically ticking off the miles.

Reaching Peck's Corner my energy levels were still high and dancing along the crest of the Smokies was still surprisingly fun. Unfortunately though, all good things must come to an end. The section from Peck's to the summit of Guyot was nothing more than a forced march, with the cumulation of about 60 miles of rugged trail taking its toll on my body.

After a long walking break to the summit of Guyot, I knew it was time to get down to business again as the last twelve miles are mostly downhill. I ate yet another increasingly unappetizing energy gel and began opening up my stride. After doing some very confusing basic math in my depleted runner brain, I realized that a sub fifteen hour finish was possible. Making this happen would hurt.

Luckily as the evening light settled in my body began to feel rejuvenated, I would even go so far to say I was in some sort of strange Zen state. The excitement of a long held dream soon to be realized was overwhelming. As I closed in on Davenport Gap, I continued to push myself harder. Near the Davenport Gap shelter I met Caitlin who had hiked up to run out with me. I greeted her with a nod and I believe I said something like "gurfgh." She stayed with me for a few strides, but the excitement of being so close pushed me into what was an unsustainable pace for her on this steep technical trail. I hit Davenport Gap at 7:05PM, a little over my goal of sub 6 hours for the final 31miles, but good enough for a 14hr50min22sec overall finish. Effectively lowering the old record by a little over an hour.

One lucky guy

After a trailside dinner and a little nap, I woke up to see Brian Williams come striding into Davenport Gap. Brian posted a 16hr45min run, one of the fastest times for this most hideous stretch of trail. I was super excited to see him have such a strong run and owe him credit for pushing me to even attempt the traverse.

Both of us were fortunate to have such a good crew. My Dad especially deserves a big thanks for getting up at 1AM, driving to Fontana Dam, Clingmans, Newfound, and Davenport Gap all in one day just so some goofballs can go for a run.

The breakdown:

And now that this is over, I can't help but wonder... What's Next?

Sunny Days, Classic Rock and Boulders as Big as My House

Last Saturday, while Dave was at work (sorry Dave) we went on adventure on the far Eastern end of the park. Big Creek is one of my fav places to start a hike. In the spring and summer it can be spectacularly beautiful.

Big Creek...loooking goood

Dense green forest, wildflowers galore in the early spring on through summer and more places to get in and take a dip than you could shake a stick at...although their are lots of sticks to shake if you were so inclined(where does that phrase come from anyway?

So on the aforementioned day we set out on Big Creek Trail for a walk to Mouse Creek Falls, and in search of any other foolishness we could get into.

Traipsing through the Rhodo

Big Creek Trail has always been one of my favorite trails in the park. It is always nice to share a place you love with your best friends. We spent much of the day just hopping around on rocks near the river.

We spent much of the day looking for the "perfect" rock...classification below

On a previous hike with our buddies I failed to deliver boulders for our friend Hoy to climb. In fact I think I pretty much managed to find the only trail in the Smokies without a single one. Big Creek put up a much better showing.

Once found..the "perfect" rock was climbed...expertly.

He even managed to find one that was not covered in moss, surrounded by other rocks, harboring venomous snakes or choked in poison ivy and stinging nettle. Maybe we will have to try a warm Winter day next time.

Mouse Creek Falls

The falls was beautiful, as usual. Way worth the short walk. In fact, I always wonder why it is not more popular than it is. But I can't say that I am sorry that we were the only people there. ~~Caitlin~~

Double Dippin': Back to Back Runs up Mt. LeConte

Mt. LeConte
Great Smoky Mountains National Park
24.5 miles  5hr25min
~7,000ft elevation gain

I've kept telling myself all Winter/Spring that as soon as we get a really nice warm day I'd do a double run of Mt. LeConte. With yesterdays temps reaching eighty degrees, I decided it was time to own up to this foolish notion.

Up Alum, Down Bullhead, Up Rainbow, Down Alum

My mapping software put the total elevation gain around 10,000ft, my best guess is that it's closer to 7,000ft

A terrible idea

In the initial miles, there was the temptation to see if I could lower my PR for Alum Cave Trail. Luckily I quickly came to my senses, realizing that if I was going to enjoy the other 20 miles of the days run I'd better back off the pace. I hit leconte lodge in a little over 57min before making the side trip to the official summit.

Before heading down Bullhead Trail I stopped at leconte lodge to top off the water bottles and say hello to the staff. The trip down Bullhead was sweet. I was happy with my decision to descend Bullhead instead of Rainbow because the footing is exponentially better. In the lower stretches there were also quite a few early season wildflowers.

Let's not be hasty Hepatica

I hit the Rainbow Falls Trailhead 2hrs and 26min into the run. I can't say I was especially excited about the 6.5 mile climb back up the mountain, but I managed to maintain a decent pace until just past the falls. Things got a little ugly after that. The eighty degree heat had me fighting off leg cramps for the remainder of the ascent.

On the initial trip up there wasn't much to see, but by the time I topped out at the summit again things had cleared out.

No side trip to Myrtle Point today

The idea of finding a nice sunny spot to lie down came across my mind more than once while on the summit. Instead I just guzzled some tasty leconte water and shot the breeze with the staff a minute before making the trip back down Alum. On the way down Alum I had a good time seeing some of the folks I ran into on the way up that morning. Despite a few stops and a crowded trail I still made my way down in a little under 55min. I was one happy guy to see the final footbridge.

Running Above the Clouds

Snake Den Ridge/Appalachian/ Balsam Mt. Trails

Cosby, TN GSMNP

28mi, ~ 5,500ft elevation gain   6hr1min



Any run that begins on Snake Den Ridge Trail is bound to be rough, and this one most certainly was. The initial miles are heinously steep. Over the first 6 miles you gain roughly 4,000ft.

An illustration of heinousness

I also had a good foot soaking at the two mile mark, which didn't boost my chances of getting the elevation gain over with quickly.

Nothing like some wet feet 2 miles into a 28 mile run

As I made my way up the ridge, I was a man in doubt. The fog was making no attempts to be inconspicuous. Briers lining the trail were frozen, crackling and hissing as I passed. This really wasn't shaping up to be the day I wanted. I continued to push myself up the ridge in some strange run/grunt/hike/stumble motion. Then out of nowhere, I popped out above the clouds.

Nearing the AT

This run eagerly doles out punishment, but it makes up for the abuse with plenty of views.

In the neighborhood of Mt. Guyot

Looking towards Mt. Sterling

Can't get enough of that panoramic function

Things did improve as the run progressed past Snake Den Ridge, but I wouldn't say they went exactly swimmingly either. I hit my turn around point at just over three hours and began my trip back by navigating a blowdown which I had just been through. As I tried to resume running, I more or less face planted and made a guttural sound that when spelled phonetically would come out as mugelferthinsenuvabesh. As I sat in the trail, I realized I had really neglected to eat very much so far, and had myself a little time-out while eating a candy bar. The day was much more pleasant after this point.

View from Mt. Guyot, 2nd highest peak in the Smokies

I finally get to take Balsam Mt off my list...

Made the return trip from the Balsam Mt./Gunter Fork junction just slightly quicker than on the trip out. The overall pace today was oppressively slow, around 13min/miles, but I knew coming into this day that the running would very often give way to hiking and no real pace could ever be established. Despite the challenges, still one of the most rewarding runs I've attempted in some time. These are the days that make every other run easy by comparison.